![]() The oily WDSF films were usually not visible on the CLIMAT tests specimens after a 3 month outdoor exposure period, and in many instances the aluminium wire had almost completely corroded away. The breakdown of the CPCs during outdoor exposure either on land or at sea followed a similar pattern for all products of a particular type. Isolated pits also formed under the hard film CPCs, and they did not grow appreciably with further testing time. These isolated pits developed into clusters and eventually spread over the whole test panel. In the salt spray tests with SO2, isolated pits were the first visual appearance of corrosion on panels coated with the soft film CPCs. Ardrox 3961 beneath Ardrox 3322 these features were not observed. When an oily film was applied beneath the HF CPCs eg. With time, underfilm or filiform corrosion, cracking and blistering were associated with the corrosion pitting. For the hard film CPCs, the sites for coating breakdown appeared to be small defects in the coating. With some CPCs pitting never developed from these etched areas with prolonged exposure. With time, corrosion pits formed within these etched areas. The first sign of failure of both the WDHF and NWHF CPCs which provided good protection was the appearance of isolated etched areas beneath the film. Black spots appeared, possibly beneath defects in the films, and developed into isolated corrosion pits. The waxy films tended to remain intact on the test panel surface during the NSS test. These oily film products are not designed for protection in the open but are meant to work in crevices and cracks in paint coatings. They also tested Water Displacing Hard Film (WDHF) and Non-Water Displacing Hard Film (NWDHF).ĭuring the salt spray tests, the oily based CPCs appeared to be washed away at localised areas on the test panels, leaving gaps in the film at which corrosion pits developed and coalesced into clusters. Note that WDSF stands for Water Displacing Soft Film, and NWDSF stands for Non-Water Displacing Soft Film. ![]() Disadvantage is that it's messy to handle and attracts dirt (but easy to clean when needed). Linseed Oil - heavy rust, mostly top halfĦ/1/08 - finished testing, wiped down all coupons with cleanerĬRC - slight rust in the corners and by the scratchĪdvantage of Fluid Film over hard film CPC (like CRC) is that it remain liquid and will self-heal minor scratches. Linseed Oil -spot rust, mostly in the top halfīoeshield T9 -light spot rust, mostly in the top half ![]() Very light rust started to form on coupon covered with boiled linseed oilġ2/27/07 Inspected and photographed all coupons. Sprayed salt water on all coupons on both sidesįound abundance of rust spots on unprotected/wd40 coupon, with a few spots exibiting heavy rust formation. Linseeed oil turned brown color in few spots, making it difficult to see the metal underneath. Before application of CPC, coupons were cleaned with mineral spiritsġ2/22/07 Inspected and photographed all coupons.įound visible rust only on bare/wd40 coupon (both top and bottom). Started 10/26/07 - all coupons were cleaned to bare metal with a grinder and deburred. Boeshild T9, Boiled Linseed Oil, and WD40 did not do well. It gives off fumes for about a day after application, so it would be better to let vehicle sit and drive something else if you have that option.ĭenwood asked about the salt spray test I did with Fluid Film back in '07-08 (he has similar thread going on about CPC on Samba forums), figured I'd list the results here:Īs you can see Fluid Film, CRC Heavy Duty CPC, and Johnson Triple Guard Grease did well. In some cases it might be necessary to drill access holes, but I found that removing inner/outer trim and body plugs will usually give sufficient access. Each vehicle has it's typical "bad spots" - so put extra effort to get good coverage in those areas. ![]() On application - you'll want to get INSIDE all the door panels, rocker panels, wheel wells, quarter panels. Another way to make it easier to spray, like somebody else mentioned - mix with Kerosene. pail of Fluid Film NAS - rust-proofing vehicles, trailers, implements, parts, equipment.įor application I use engine degreaser spray wand - it's ~18" long and has angled tip that can get in to tight spots better than a spray gun.īulk Fluid Film is hard to spray at ambient temperature - put it in to a tea pot and bring to boiling (I use old tea pot and propane camping stove) - it will spray like water!!! Fluid Film NAS has high flash point (405F), so flamability should not be an issue. Fluid Film was one of the best (based on durability, ease of application, and cost). In 2008 I did a 6 month long salt-spray corrosion test on about a dozen corrosion prevention compounds (tested with 2"*6" bare steel coupons). Fluid Film works great! I'm in New England and that's the only way I can drive old cars around here without them falling apart. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |